The Biba Story: 1964–1975 Dovecot Studios Edinburgh 5th February 2026 Review
The Biba Story: 1964–1975 is on at Dovecot Studios, Edinburgh from 6 February – 27 June 2026, and if the already sold out opening talks are anyindicators of what is to come, then this well-curated and informative exhibition is going to be a very busy one.
This exhibition is the story of former fashion illustrator Barbara Hulanicki who along with her husband Stephen Fitz-Simon founded and created what was to start with a mail-order company called Biba. With, for the early 1960s, some revolutionary marketing concepts to the UK, this small business sold over 17,000 items of one design alone. A small shop in London followed, then another larger one in a different location. Expansion continued until within 10 years the now legendary brand was a lifestyle choice and destination with a seven-storey department store to its name.
Almost ignored by the big fashion magazines of the day, presumed not to be important enough to be in the same print space as the big fashion labels and designers, Barbara Hulanicki swiftly proved them all wrong by creating a line of well made, well designed, affordable clothing that the British buying public simply loved. For many people throughout the country, making the pilgrimage to London (or Brighton) to visit, experience and buy Biba's designs and increasing lifestyle products, such as their cosmetics line, was worth all their efforts. Barbara Hulanicki found a way into not only the pockets, but the hearts of a new generation of Biba buyers who never deserted her during the store’s glory days.
At Dovecot Studios, the public can explore in this exhibition, organised by the Fashion and Textile Museum, London, not only the history of Biba (there is also a coffee table book of this available to buy), but the clothing itself, and no book illustration ever makes up for seeing the clothing designs up close in real life.
Through the information boards, you do get an idea of the some of the business dynamics and emerging creative tensions behind Biba towards the end, but always that attention to design, detail, and affordability remained at the core of Barbara Hulanicki's vision for Biba.
Since the original Biba company closed, the Biba name has been re-started more than a few times but, as this exhibition clearly shows, there is and only ever was one Biba in many people’s hearts and minds - the original one.
Review by Tom King (c) 2026
www.artsreviewsedinburgh.com
This exhibition is the story of former fashion illustrator Barbara Hulanicki who along with her husband Stephen Fitz-Simon founded and created what was to start with a mail-order company called Biba. With, for the early 1960s, some revolutionary marketing concepts to the UK, this small business sold over 17,000 items of one design alone. A small shop in London followed, then another larger one in a different location. Expansion continued until within 10 years the now legendary brand was a lifestyle choice and destination with a seven-storey department store to its name.
Almost ignored by the big fashion magazines of the day, presumed not to be important enough to be in the same print space as the big fashion labels and designers, Barbara Hulanicki swiftly proved them all wrong by creating a line of well made, well designed, affordable clothing that the British buying public simply loved. For many people throughout the country, making the pilgrimage to London (or Brighton) to visit, experience and buy Biba's designs and increasing lifestyle products, such as their cosmetics line, was worth all their efforts. Barbara Hulanicki found a way into not only the pockets, but the hearts of a new generation of Biba buyers who never deserted her during the store’s glory days.
At Dovecot Studios, the public can explore in this exhibition, organised by the Fashion and Textile Museum, London, not only the history of Biba (there is also a coffee table book of this available to buy), but the clothing itself, and no book illustration ever makes up for seeing the clothing designs up close in real life.
Through the information boards, you do get an idea of the some of the business dynamics and emerging creative tensions behind Biba towards the end, but always that attention to design, detail, and affordability remained at the core of Barbara Hulanicki's vision for Biba.
Since the original Biba company closed, the Biba name has been re-started more than a few times but, as this exhibition clearly shows, there is and only ever was one Biba in many people’s hearts and minds - the original one.
Review by Tom King (c) 2026
www.artsreviewsedinburgh.com
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